Thanks to Manit Monsur & Tito Ferradans for various images.

For optimal results, our CineMorph Anamorphic Looks filter is ideal for use on medium to tight focal lengths (50mm or tighter) with apertures speeds in the f0.95 to f2.8 range - what we call "Anamorphic Friendly SLR Lenses".

Some good examples are the Helios 58mm f2, Jupiter or Nikon 85mm f2, or 50mm or 55mm f1.4 lenses, etc. These are all sharp, mostly affordable lenses and a lot of fun for use both with and without anamorphic attachments and filters.

Our Flare-Streak filters work with most lenses over 20mm and don’t have the same limitations. Find it HERE!

Fun colored flare options available! Choose from Neutral (where the flare color is dependent on the temperature of the light source) or Blue, Red, Pink-Fuchsia, & Teal-Turquoise. 

We now offer a glass-less version. The less glass, the better!

Q: What is our Glass-less version? A: Many CineMorph filter users already remove the glass from their filters to lessen ghosting and light reflections. This is also helpful when the user wants to stack additional filters like Diopters, Neutral Density, Faders, Polarizers, etc. 

The Anamorphic Looks effects/results are identical from both the Glass version and Glass-less versions.

- 58mm filters will include an additional 52mm step ring, giving you both 58mm and 52mm mounting sizes with one purchase.

- 77mm filters will include an additional 72mm step ring, giving you both 77mm and 72mm mounting sizes with one purchase.

Note: 77mm and 82mm Mark II Pro-Line CineMorph filters aren't recommended for smaller lenses. Use the 58mm CineMorph filter with a step ring if needed.

Few lenses work with our 77mm and 82mm CineMorph filters due to focal length and aperture limits. The 77mm and 82mm Flare-Streak filters work with most lenses over 20mm and don’t have the same limitations.

Why use CineMorph instead of a real anamorphic lens?
CineMorph offers the look of anamorphic—flares, streaks, and vertically stretched "waterfall" bokeh—without the complex rigging, dual focusing, or high cost. It’s an “Anamorfake” approach designed for fast, flexible shooting with standard SLR or cinema lenses.

While a real anamorphic lens is unmatched, CineMorph has fooled even seasoned anamorphic pros. It doesn’t squeeze the image, so you shoot in 16:9 and crop to your preferred aspect ratio in post.

The filter is mounted in a smooth rotating ring for easy alignment and uses sharp optical glass that won’t soften your image. You can also remove the glass if needed.

It’s ideal for fast lenses (f0.95 to f2.8), and we recommend shooting wide open. The filter allows true focus-pulling and rack focusing—something that’s nearly impossible with traditional anamorphic projection lenses, which can require focusing two lenses at once.

Best used on prime (non-zoom) lenses with smaller front diameters. For crop-sensor cameras, use 45mm or tighter focal lengths; for full-frame, 55mm or tighter for optimal results.

All CineMorph filters are stackable with matching front/rear threads, so you can add ND, polarizers, or faders. You can also stack a wide-angle converter in front if you need a broader field of view.

Recommended Cameras & Lenses for CineMorph Filters

• Crop Sensor Cameras Use a 50mm f1.8 or tighter focal length.

• Full Frame Cameras Try a Helios 58mm f2.0, an Asahi 55mm f1.8 Takumar (M42 mount), or other 50mm–85mm primes (f0.95–f2.0).

Older Russian, Japanese, and Nikon lenses work great, and lens adapters are widely available on eBay, Amazon, and most camera shops.

Some zoom lenses can work, but only if they have smaller front elements. For example, the Canon 70–200mm on a full-frame Canon 5D won’t work well below ~150mm because the front is too large to shoot through the CineMorph’s bokeh element.

See our CineMorph Mod Filter for the Canon-mount Sigma 18–35mm f1.8 HERE.

As with real anamorphic setups, the best results come from older SLR lenses—Canon, Nikon, or M42 mount (Russian/Japanese)—with 49mm to 62mm front diameters. Lenses like the 50mm f1.8, 58mm f2, 85mm f2, 100mm f2.8, and 135mm f2.8 deliver excellent results.

These vintage lenses are fun to use, sharp, solidly built, and far more affordable than most modern options.

FAQs

Q: Do you have just a Flare Filter without the Anamorphic Oval Bokeh?
A: Yes, see our Flare / Streak Filter.

Q: What lenses work well with the CineMorph on a DSLR?
A: We recommend older manual lenses like the Nikon AI and E-series (85mm f2, 100mm f2.8, 135mm), Helios 58mm f2, Jupiter 85mm f2, Tair 135mm f2.8, Takumar 55mm f1.8, and Canon FD lenses.

Just use the proper converter ring (e.g. Nikon to EOS or Sony E mount, FD to EOS, or M42 to EOS, etc.). These are easy to find on eBay, Amazon, or camera shops.

Keep in mind: the wider the lens (considering crop factor), the shorter the flare/streak will appear.

Q: Is it normal to see a line through the Bokeh shapes in the final image? And is it normal to not always have perfectly shaped bokeh?
A: Yes, many high-end flare and streak filters costing $600-$1200 also visibly show lines running through the bokeh in the final imagery. And yes, real anamorphic lenses also don't always achieve perfectly shaped oval bokeh due to variables such as using closed down aperture speeds or pairing smaller SLR lenses with larger anamorphic attachments.

Q. What's the difference between the 77mm vs the 58mm CineMorph filter? Can I use the 77mm version on smaller front lenses?

A. It's good to try and match the front size as somewhat close to the 2 sizes we offer (58mm or 77mm). If you go with too large of a filter with a smaller front compatible SLR lens what happens is that the top and bottom of any oval bokeh shapes could be slightly cut off. It'll still stretch the bokeh vertically and you'll still get the streaks and flares but the bokeh and light shaping might not always be perfectly oval.

This also happens with real anamorphic lens combinations as well. So it's an authentic characteristic of shooting with anamorphics. If you don't mind the cropped oval shapes on certain lenses, then go with the 77mm filter and a step-up ring. 

The main reason the 58mm is the more "universal" version is because most lenses out there that play nicely with anamorphics and our filters, have smaller front sizes. There aren’t too many lenses that play well with the 77mm or 82mm CineMorph.

Q. How do you get rid of light ghosting/reflections?

A. In certain lighting conditions (mainly at night) there can be ghosting or light refractions, which is why we changed the design a few months ago to allow you to remove the glass from the filter and still achieve the flares and bokeh morphing.

You can simply unscrew the metal ring that holds the glass in place. To do this use a small flathead screwdriver by pressing into the rings 1 of 2 notches. Turn the ring counterclockwise until the ring comes out. Remove only the glass and replace the ring by screwing it back down (clockwise) into the filter base.

We now offer a glass-less version in the options available above.

Return Policy

Before and After CineMorph Filter images on the full frame Canon 5D.  Thanks to Filip Filkovic Philatz - facebook.com/FilipFilkovicPhilatz

CineMorph sample and user videos.